Hilariously, I realized after writing this review and posting it that this is my SECOND TIME reviewing Une rose chyprée. The first review is here. I'm leaving this posted, though, because I honestly think Une rose chyprée is good enough to deserve double the raves. Think of this as a reflection on the scent of the day, since Une rose chyprée is what I am wearing.
. . . . . . . .
At the other end of the rose spectrum from DSH Perfumes la Rose fleurette (Rose No. 2), you have Andy Tauer's rose creation, Une rose chyprée, the first in a line called "The Mémorables." According to the perfumer
All of [The Mémorables] are like a praline: I offer them in small 15 ml flacons and all are bottled and packed by hand. They are delicate and precious and truly hand made in Switzerland. The Mémorables are fragrances that I compose around hard to get, outstanding, traditional materials. They are rich in essential oils and absolutes.The immediate rose note is overwhelmed quickly by the hot, spicy, medicinal scent. "Dark, resinous accord" is right; somehow Andy, that genius, has made a rose where I smell the rose, I smell the vanilla, I smell the geranium, but balanced with the spices and labdanum, it becomes the most muscular rose I've ever smelled. Like so many of Tauer's creations, I have never smelled anything like it. Une rose chyprée is wholly original, and I make it a point to stop and smell the roses (in life and perfume) when I have the opportunity. It's warm. It's hot. It's spicy. And yet, it also somehow smells like a wonderful hard candy, held in the mouth until it melts, slowly, all over your tongue, oozing into the different corners, so that you get the different aspects of the taste -- spicy, sweet, tangy -- over and over again. If it were a lip color, or better yet, a nail polish, it would be red, brown, black, and gold all at once, depending on how the light hit it. Over time, the medicinal notes fade out and the mix gets sweeter, and more reminiscent of a hot spicy drink.
Une rose chyprée is an oriental rose on a chypre base. It is an elegant perfume built around two natural extracts from rosa damascena: The absolute and the steam distilled essential oil. 15 ml Rose chyprée contains one pound of fresh rose petals, steam distilled in the traditional way.
Its heart is lifted by spicy Bay and hot cinnamon and a fresh accord built around bergamot, lemon and Clementine essential oils. Green Bourbon geranium oil lets the rose petals shine and contrasts with the dark resinous accord in the base, built around labdanum, oak moss, patchouli, vetiver and vanilla.
I just love this. I love it for being big (it is -- your neighbor will be smelling this one on you), for being bold, for being muscular and strong and yet vulnerable. I strongly recommend trying this, just like EVERY SINGLE OTHER TAUER PERFUME I HAVE EVER SNIFFED. You can buy everything in one fail swoop right here. Don't think. Just buy. Frankly, I'd recommend just buying the bottles unsniffed because they are excellent, reasonably priced scents, but I recognize that not everyone has that kind of money. (Sadly, I am unemployed and do not. But when I get a job -- woah nelly!) Une rose chyprée is a highly concentrated 15ml for only $75 either direct from the perfumer, or here in the US, from Luckyscent. And should you do so, and hate what you get, send it over. Whatever it is. Truthfully, I want them all. <sigh>
Want more reviews? Try...
~ A review from Angela at Now Smell This!
~ A review from Perfume Posse
~ A review from The Non-Blonde
~ A review from Perfume-Smellin' Things
~ A rather steamy review from Legerdenez
~ A review from Sorcery of Scent
~ A review from Nathan Branch
~ A review from Sniffapalooza
~ A review from Fragrantica
"How can I be drunk?
You strike with dry poison. I am possessed,
still engaged in some kind of advanced shackling.
Girl, you got to find you the man who
can smoke this out, Bad Medicine.
Girl, you got to find you the man who
can smoke this out, more Good Medicine."
- "Fast Horse," Tori Amos (you can hear the song here.)