Tuesday, February 2, 2010

You strike with dry poison; I am possessed.

SOTD: More thoughts on Tauer Perfumes Une rose chyprée

Hilariously, I realized after writing this review and posting it that this is my SECOND TIME reviewing Une rose chyprée. The first review is here. I'm leaving this posted, though, because I honestly think Une rose chyprée is good enough to deserve double the raves. Think of this as a reflection on the scent of the day, since Une rose chyprée is what I am wearing.

. . . . . . . .

At the other end of the rose spectrum from DSH Perfumes la Rose fleurette (Rose No. 2), you have Andy Tauer's rose creation, Une rose chyprée, the first in a line called "The Mémorables." According to the perfumer
All of [The Mémorables] are like a praline: I offer them in small 15 ml flacons and all are bottled and packed by hand. They are delicate and precious and truly hand made in Switzerland. The Mémorables are fragrances that I compose around hard to get, outstanding, traditional materials. They are rich in essential oils and absolutes.

Une rose chyprée is an oriental rose on a chypre base. It is an elegant perfume built around two natural extracts from rosa damascena: The absolute and the steam distilled essential oil. 15 ml Rose chyprée contains one pound of fresh rose petals, steam distilled in the traditional way.

Its heart is lifted by spicy Bay and hot cinnamon and a fresh accord built around bergamot, lemon and Clementine essential oils. Green Bourbon geranium oil lets the rose petals shine and contrasts with the dark resinous accord in the base, built around labdanum, oak moss, patchouli, vetiver and vanilla.
The immediate rose note is overwhelmed quickly by the hot, spicy, medicinal scent. "Dark, resinous accord" is right; somehow Andy, that genius, has made a rose where I smell the rose, I smell the vanilla, I smell the geranium, but balanced with the spices and labdanum, it becomes the most muscular rose I've ever smelled. Like so many of Tauer's creations, I have never smelled anything like it. Une rose chyprée is wholly original, and I make it a point to stop and smell the roses (in life and perfume) when I have the opportunity. It's warm. It's hot. It's spicy. And yet, it also somehow smells like a wonderful hard candy, held in the mouth until it melts, slowly, all over your tongue, oozing into the different corners, so that you get the different aspects of the taste -- spicy, sweet, tangy -- over and over again. If it were a lip color, or better yet, a nail polish, it would be red, brown, black, and gold all at once, depending on how the light hit it. Over time, the medicinal notes fade out and the mix gets sweeter, and more reminiscent of a hot spicy drink.

I just love this. I love it for being big (it is -- your neighbor will be smelling this one on you), for being bold, for being muscular and strong and yet vulnerable. I strongly recommend trying this, just like EVERY SINGLE OTHER TAUER PERFUME I HAVE EVER SNIFFED. You can buy everything in one fail swoop right here. Don't think. Just buy. Frankly, I'd recommend just buying the bottles unsniffed because they are excellent, reasonably priced scents, but I recognize that not everyone has that kind of money. (Sadly, I am unemployed and do not. But when I get a job -- woah nelly!) Une rose chyprée is a highly concentrated 15ml for only $75 either direct from the perfumer, or here in the US, from Luckyscent. And should you do so, and hate what you get, send it over. Whatever it is. Truthfully, I want them all. <sigh>

Want more reviews? Try...
~ A review from Angela at Now Smell This!
~ A review from Perfume Posse
~ A review from The Non-Blonde
~ A review from Perfume-Smellin' Things
~ A rather steamy review from Legerdenez
~ A review from Sorcery of Scent
~ A review from Nathan Branch
~ A review from Sniffapalooza
~ A review from Fragrantica

"How can I be drunk?
You strike with dry poison. I am possessed,
still engaged in some kind of advanced shackling.
Girl, you got to find you the man who
can smoke this out, Bad Medicine.
Girl, you got to find you the man who
can smoke this out, more Good Medicine."

- "Fast Horse," Tori Amos (you can hear the song here.)

5 comments:

The Left Coast Nose said...

Wow!! That is a heck of a great review!! (Thanks for the Tori reference, BTW-- she is my goddess...)

I haven't tried this one yet-- wish I had since I'm thinking a lot about Guerlain "Rose Barbare" these days, another rose chypre. Any thoughts on the two? LOVE L'Air de Morocain-- still learning to love Lonestar Memories...

Diana said...

I haven't tried Rose Barbare, though I'd like to if it is comparable. It's the medicinal quality of this that I love. It reminds me of nude sculpture because it is so strong and...muscular is the only word I know to use.

Tori is my Goddess, too! I've seen her tons of times, have all the albums and a TON of bootlegs -- like stuff of her performing at weddings her dad officiated when she was a teenager! I'm pretty obsessed...

ChickenFreak said...

I so wanted to like this, but I couldn't. :( I have yet to like even one Tauer and I _really_ want to. I think it's that "dark, resinous" thing - there's something in there that turns me against the whole fragrance.

But I'll keep trying.

Diana said...

Hey not everything is for everyone. You know how weird it is for me that I don't hear music every time I smell Havana Vanille? Sometimes it just isn't there.

Mals86 said...

I have not yet fallen head-over-heels for a Tauer, but URC has come closest. I really enjoy that deep growly rose, and the almost edible quality of the whole thing.

However, it didn't grab my heart and run - and I'm learning now that I don't really need full bottles of scents that don't have that gut impact. I think I'll stick with my 2ml sample, which oughta last awhile because it's so concentrated. (I now own three big bottles and a mini of L'Arte di Gucci - because it DID grab my heart and run.) Sounds like URC is your baby, though, so I recommend you buy it and wear the heck out of it, enjoying every breath.